A chemical peel is a cosmetic treatment used to exfoliate the skin for a brighter, smoother and clearer complexion. Suitable for almost any skin type, glycolic acid peels are one of most popular chemical peels available.
Glycolic acid peels can help to address a variety of skin concerns, from melasma and acne scars to stretch marks and fine lines.
Want to discover more about this skin resurfacing procedure? Below, we explain the benefits of a glycolic acid peel, how it works and what to expect so that you can decide whether it’s the best choice for you.
What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid found in natural substances like sugar cane and sugar beets.
This acid is used for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. And thanks to the relatively small molecular size, it can penetrate deep into the skin.
How does a glycolic acid peel work?
When it comes to chemical peels, glycolic acid is a firm favourite amongst many dermatologists and aestheticians for its ability to transform the look and feel of most skin types.
As we mentioned above, glycolic acid consists of particularly small molecules. This helps it to readily penetrate the skin and dissolve the lipids that bind dead skin cells, separating the old, dull layer from the fresh, new layer. The result is smoother, brighter, and rejuvenated skin.
Your skin therapist will begin by cleansing your skin, protecting your hair and shielding your eyes. They will also assess your skin needs and select the most suitable concentration of glycolic acid.
Next, the peel will be applied to your skin with a brush, sponge or cotton ball.
Rest assured that it is normal to experience some slight tingling during a light peel, and pain medication is not usually needed. However, you may receive some topical numbing cream if undergoing a medium peel, which can bring a temporary burning sensation with it.
Glycolic acid peel intensity explained
How deep a glycolic peel penetrates your skin will depend on the percentage of glycolic acid within its solution. The greater the concentration, the more intense the treatment and the more noticeable its results.
Light glycolic acid peel
This superficial peel contains a 20-30% concentration of glycolic acid and is only applied to the skin for approximately two minutes. Penetrating only the top one to three layers of skin, this gentle peel has no downtime and can be used on a relatively regular basis.
A light glycolic acid peel is excellent for revitalising the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and addressing mild hyperpigmentation.
This option is also particularly beneficial for darker skin tones, which are more susceptible to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which can be a side effect of deeper chemical peels.
Medium glycolic acid peel
Medium-strength glycolic acid peels contain a higher concentration (35-50%) of glycolic acid and remain on the skin for up to five minutes.
Medium-strength glycolic acid peels contain a higher concentration (35-50%) of glycolic acid and remain on the skin for up to five minutes.
As a result, the glycolic acid reaches the papillary dermis, which is the second layer of skin that sits directly beneath the epidermis.
This depth can be ideal for treating moderate hyperpigmentation concerns and dull, rough skin.
However, the greater intensity means there is some downtime between sessions. We usually recommend waiting at least one week before applying this peel again.
Deep glycolic acid peel
With glycolic acid concentrations as high as 70%, a deep peel should only be performed by a trained specialist.
The peel is applied to your face for as many as 15 minutes. This allows absorption all the way down to the reticular dermis, the deepest layer of the dermis.
These deep peels are often reserved for severe acne scarring, wrinkles, and health concerns, such as precancerous growths. They involve the most downtime, often up to two weeks, during which you must adhere to a strict aftercare routine.
6 benefits of a glycolic acid peel
Glycolic acid peels bring many benefits for a variety of skin types and concerns.
1. Acne and acne scars
As glycolic acid works to dissolve excess oil from hair follicle roots, this type of peel can help to prevent and treat all types of acne, as well as shrink enlarged pores. It is particularly successful at clearing the blackheads and whiteheads that come with comedonal acne.
The benefits of this cosmetic treatment also extend beyond active breakouts. With consistent use, glycolic peels can significantly reduce the appearance of cystic lesions and acne scars.
2. Stretch marks
Stretch marks tend to be red or purple (striae rubra) when they first form, before gradually fading to white (striae alba).
By boosting collagen production, a glycolic acid peel can help to treat white stretch marks.
3. Dark spots
Whether due to acne, eczema or using too many skincare products, trauma can elicit excess melanin production – the pigment responsible for giving skin its colour. This leads to flat dark spots, known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Glycolic acid helps to correct skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, an enzyme that regulates melanin. Dark spots can disappear completely after about 6 to 8 glycolic acid peels.
4. Melasma
Also known as chloasma, melasma is a type of hyperpigmentation characterised by dark patches of skin that usually appear on the face. This skin condition often occurs during pregnancy.
Glycolic acid is a keratolytic, which means it can break down the outer layer of skin for deep exfoliation. Therefore, moderate and high-intensity glycolic acid peels can be an excellent treatment option for melasma, getting rid of damaged cells and accelerating skin cell turnover for a more even complexion.
To top it off, this type of acid peel also prepares the skin for topical treatments that decrease discoloration.
5. Photoaging
Exposing your skin to the sun too often can lead to signs of premature aging, such as sagging skin, dark spots and wrinkles.
A glycolic acid peel can help to reduce the appearance of this ‘photoaging’,
particularly when combined with the application of trichloroacetic acid (TCA). Applying glycolic acid to your face prompts a natural healing response. The resulting boost in elastin and collagen production makes for firmer, plumper and younger-looking skin.
The rejuvenating effects of glycolic acid can also be enhanced when paired with vitamin E and melatonin. Glycolic acid can boost the antioxidant action of both compounds, improving their ability to protect your skin from photoaging.
Who can benefit from a glycolic acid peel?
Glycolic acid peels are safe for every skin type, and can enhance most complexions.
That said, if you have a darker skin tone, it is recommended that you use only mild- to moderate-strength glycolic peels to avoid any potential pigmentation issues.
Additionally, chemical peels can irritate sensitive skin if applied without careful consideration. You should not undergo this resurfacing treatment if you are sunburned or have active skin infections or blisters.
Are there any potential side effects to consider?
As with any cosmetic treatment, glycolic acid peels come with some potential side effects. Although rare, these include:
- Eye irritation (if they are not protected during the peel);
- Skin irritation, such as stinging or burning;
- Redness;
- Swelling;
- Skin tone changes like hypopigmentation;
- Crusts that can get infected if picked at;
- Cold sore activation; and
- Blisters; and
- Scarring.
The above side effects are more likely if glycolic peels are applied too often or at high intensities by inexperienced providers. Importantly, smoking cigarettes and sun exposure, both prior to and following treatment, can worsen side effects.
Discover the benefits of a glycolic acid peel in Adelaide
Glycolic acid peels are one of the most popular chemical peels in Australia. This safe skin resurfacing treatment can help to address an array of concerns, such as dark spots, acne scars and stretch marks.
If you would like to experience the benefits of a glycolic acid peel first hand, it’s important to choose an experienced aesthetician or dermatologist who can tailor this treatment to your skin type, goals and needs.
At Laser Skin And Vein, our trusted specialists will assess and prep your skin before applying a glycolic acid peel, so that you can enjoy the best possible results.
Book a glycolic acid peel in Adelaide or contact our friendly team to learn more today.
